Saturday, October 23, 2010

29: Voi to Lamu and back to Voi (Kenya)

Pictures Here:

Week 29 Update:


Voi, Mombasa, Watamu, Lamu, Mombasa, Voi.

Day 197:
One very peaceful and relaxing night later we woke up refreshed and ready to take on the world again! We did not have to go far, so there was no rush at all. After the normal morning coffee and breakfast ritual we went into the stylish room to have a nice hot shower again. It was slightly disappointing to be honest. The water was hot, which was not so important in the heat of the African morning, but the pressure was… well, none existent. I was pretty sure that they gave us a maintenance room to use as I could not honestly see how a customer paying lodge prices would be content with that. I wouldn’t.

Still, it was enough to wash the dust and dirt off us and after paying up for camping and the one beer I had the night before ($3 for the local beer… Ouch!) Maggie’s engine roared into life with the help of new battery and we set off down the dusty track back towards Voi. I heard the familiar knocking sound of a shock absorber without a bush at the top and had to laugh a little. I had replaced that damn thing so many times that I could do it with my eyes closed and it seemed as if quality spares was just not something that was possible to get! I had run out of spares as well, so skipped into a small spares shop in town to enquire about some parts.

The friendly man smiled and said something along the lines of finding a slightly odd, but worth wile replacement which I should try. This came in the form of an imported (From the UK I’ll have you know) shock absorber bush meant for Land Rovers. He assured me that more than half the Toyotas in the area were running on these bad boys and sensitive to the pre histories Land Cruiser/Land Rover rivalry he promised not to tell anyone if I did try them out. I bought four and replaced the busted one in the dusty street in front of the shop.

The magnificently smooth and new tar road took us ever east until we bumped into the coast and the city of Mombasa. There we had two options: Either head south towards the resort towns of Diani Beach and the infamous Forty Thieves beach bar, or head north to a little known place we had heard about called Edelweiss. This was not mentioned in any of our guide books or indicated on any of our maps, but there was a brochure up on the board at Jungle Junction with words of positive feedback scribbled onto it. It sounded just like our cup of tea, so we headed that way, skirting the city and avoiding the much publicised madness of traffic.

We reached Edelweiss, just more than 20km north of Mombasa before the lunch hour and were greeted by Olli, the owner. From the outside it did not resemble any camp site that we had ever come across but when we were directed through a small banana plantation which Maggie barely fit through, the yard opened up to a huge lawn with big shady trees dotted around. It was fantastically nice and we were the only people there. Olli introduced us to his wife who’s name I did not catch and then showed us heaven… a 20m long, 10 m wide, sparkling blue swimming pool in between the palm trees they had growing in the yard. It was at least 40 deg C in the shade, so even before contemplating anything else we jumped in the pool. This soon turned into the normal ritual of the afternoon. Every time our bodies were dry, we’d walk the seven meters from the nice and comfortable Banda to the edge of the pool and plunge in, staying there until we had cooled down.

In the late afternoon we decided to go for a walk on the close by beach. This was slightly easier said than done as our direct path was blocked by a huge resort hotel. We found a way around, a small alley way to the sand and spilled out onto a scene of low tide coral, sea weed and breakers about a kilometre off shore. It wasn’t exactly as I hoped it would be before we got there, but not totally unexpected. We had noticed that every guide book’s description of the Kenya coast had some reference to sea weed and coral. We walked past the obligatory curio market with shaking heads, saying “no thanks” more times than we could count and ended up right in front of the hotel that had blocked our way. There the beach was fairly quiet, but still offered no chance of actually swimming in the sea. Past the hotel we were approached by the ever present beach boys who immediately referred to me as “brother”, pissing me off in an instant. I had however learnt that in situations like that, confusion was the best tactic so I answered every carefully orchestrated question with another question, or an answer which made no sense at all.

Before heading around a headland into another bay which I could not clearly see, we decided to turn around. I was fairly certain of two things at that point: The one was that the three guys who were walking with us were harmless, but the second was that they were most definitely angling to sell us drugs. I played so stupid that they could hardly believe their misfortune. Close to the hotel we had walked past they abruptly stopped, greeted us and turned on their heels. It was as if we had come to an invisible boundary marking their territory and they were not allowed past it. Not that I minded off course.

Within seconds we were approached by two other people: One offering massages, pedicures, manicures and Henna tattoos and the other offering affordable safaris to the Masai Mara. It became abundantly clear to me that it was not possible to go for a quiet and relaxing stroll along the beach in the area and I surmised that the whole coast of Kenya would offer little difference. I did not really find that kind of beach and coral appealing anyway, so didn’t mind leaving it at all. We walked straight into the resort hotel, skipping the curio market and was stopped and questioned by the security guard. I simply told him that we were after a drink in the bar, which satisfied him enough to let us pass.

We were obviously not after a drink in the bar and walked straight through the resort and out the gate closest to humble accommodation. The guard on that side thought we were residents and I had to tell him that we were off to buy some fruit before he let us go. It was a little too much for me and I was very happy to be back at the relaxing atmosphere and welcoming pool of Edelweiss. I immediately jumped into the water to rinse off the salt and sweat I had accumulated and repeated the process well into the night and every time I felt a little too warm. It truly was a fantastic place to hang out.

Day 198:
Waking up to the sounds of birds and the friendly family dog coming to greet us was so nice that the decision to stay another day came without discussion. It would simply have been rude to leave without hanging by the pool for at least twelve hours without break.

So that’s pretty much what we did… The whole day…. And nothing more…

In the evening we made our dinner with great enthusiasm, celebrated our successful day of doing nothing with some wine and went to bed once the night had cooled down a little. Lying in bed I could hear three things: The sounds of the local bar, the sounds of the local night club and the sounds of the Mosque’s speakers every time there was prayer singing happening. The only thing that worried me slightly was the night club, as it seemed fairly close by and the speakers were definitely not at African volume yet. I was also pleasantly surprised at the subdued 80’s music it was playing and at some point I was convinced they were having a Karaoke night. It was all a little surreal and not that disturbing at all.

Needless to say that the speakers did reach the defining African volume at around 1am, protesting in blurred reverberation in a way that whatever it was broadcasting became nothing more than a hissing noise. I was very pleased when it all stopped around 2am.

Day 199:
At 4am the prayer singing started up again, but only lasted for about ten minutes. The singer had a really nice and soothing voice and although I did not understand a word of what was being broadcasted, I didn’t find it particularly disturbing. At 5am the local cell phone network’s marketing sms came through on the phone and by 8am the local Christian church had its turn to broadcast its chosen religion for the whole of Kenya east of the Rift Valley to hear. It had been a normal, standard Saturday night in an African village and I had to just take it in my stride, or try and remember not to stay near villages on weekends in future. The latter would have been difficult as we rarely knew what day it was. The thing that baffled me most was why every group of people from Muslim to Christian to pub crawler to dance junkie felt the resolute need to force their views and choice of sound onto the world by using the biggest loudest speakers money could buy. Surely you would still go to the Heaven your religion advertises by practicing it in a reserved and quiet way and surely it should be more important to feed your family that to own the biggest loud speakers in the world…

Edelweiss’s sparkling swimming pool offered welcome relief from the early morning conflict in my mind and as my body cooled down, so did my temper. The decision was made though; we would not spend another night in the village. We also did not have far to go at all, so we also decided to laze the morning away by the pool and leave only after lunch. We did have the savvy to pack the tent and everything else away while it was still cool enough to breathe outside. I could actually not believe how hot this place was and we were not even close to the Equator!

When we finally did hit the road, it was with wet hair and clothes from the swimming pool and Maggie’s air-conditioning was working over time. We had turned the fridge off while at Edelweiss to give the deep cycle battery a proper slow charge over night for a change. This also meant that the fridge was working very hard to get to our chosen running temperature. It was only an hour’s drive to Watamu, but we timed it well to arrive after the worst heat of the day.

Watamu for us hade two possible attractions: The first and obvious was the ancient ruins of Gede. These were made up of a city of presumably rich merchants which were dated to around 1399 due to the writing on a tomb by the entrance to the city. Our second was to find a suitable SCUBA diving outfit in Kenya. We started with the latter and after driving around town and seeing the size of the mansions and the shininess of the vehicles, and the fact that we were barely let into resorts looking dusty and like independent travellers should have confirmed our suspicions. The dive centre we did find had a standard price of Euro 45 per dive, using our own equipment… Yeh right buddy! We decided to wait to Egypt to dive as there we would not need any Vaseline to make life more comfortable after visiting the reception… if you catch my drift. (No pun intended there)

We looked into accommodation and found something that would have sufficed, but that didn’t really look that nice at all and then headed to the ruins. The cost of entrance was a fair $6 each and the guide we selected asked $6 for his hour and a half of expertise, which I also felt was fair. The ruins themselves were fantastically impressive! Although not as big in size as the Great Zimbabwe, this place dated from roughly the same area and the stories told by this guide pretty much co-insided with the stories told by our guide in Zimbabwe. It seemed that these were the guys who travelled south to Zimbabwe to trade their beads and porcelain for the Zimbabwe gold. They would then bring that back to Gede and trade the gold for more beads and porcelain from the merchant sailors from the east. The most mentionable thing about these fascinating ruins was the way their water system worked. The not only had the flow of water from one side of the city to the next sorted out in terms of drinking water, irrigation and sewage, but they also used what we now refer to as grey water for the sewage system. This water was lifted by bucket from the well, and then used by the Muslims to wash before going into the Mosque. They would discard this water into another well close by which will then naturally filter it through coral and earth and let it flow into the start of the system again. Genius!

The archaeologists who excavated parts of the cities and parts of the houses named the dwellings for what was found in them. You had places like: The house of two courts, the Dhow house, The Spanish scissors house and the Palace, belonging to the Sultan of the time. There was a public court; a woman’s court and a There were houses with door and windowless strong rooms and a place which was aptly named: The Bank. It was all extremely fascinating and really well preserved and presented. I saw the whole excursion as very much worth our while.

Once we had done the tour and learned about the place it was time to find a place to put our heads down. On the way to Watamu we saw a place advertising rooms and camping next to the main road and decided to head in that direction. This place was directly next to the Arabuko Sokoke National Park and boasted not only a fully functioning bar and restaurant, but also a really neat, pleasant and quiet camp site and cottages. The problem for us, as in so many camp sites in East Africa was that we could not actually get Maggie to the camp site. We ended up in the car park…again… but this time we did not mind that much. It was a peaceful environment with the proprietor giving us advice on the Lamu he had lived in for more than twenty years and the locals looking at us not as a primary source of income, but as something out of the ordinary which deserved a little respect for the adventure we had managed up to then.

After drinking his ice cold beer and pitching camp we got on with the task of cooking dinner, and everything else that was in our freezer as we had planned to turn the sucker off while enjoying island life. We had planned for this eventuality and thus had very little to dispose off. None the less, the samoosa sheets we had acquired in Nairobi got employed for the task and in no time we had some curry and mince samoosas, some bacon and banana samoosas and a couple of banana and chocolate samoosas for our desert that evening. By 22:00 we were done with baking and cooking and incredibly tired after the previous night’s lack of sleep, so we crawled into bed and fell asleep the instant our heads hit the pillows.

Day 200:
It had been a well deserved and very peaceful night and we woke up refreshed and ready to take on the world again. The showers were cold, but welcoming in the heat of the coast and after washing the night’s stickiness of us, we started heading north again. We past the town of Malindi which was commonly referred to as the Little Italy of East Africa. Every second building housed an Italian restaurant and the ones in between were either banks or Italian Tile shops. It was like we were transported out of Africa for that little bit and if it wasn’t for the Omni present fruit sellers on the corners of the streets, the mad Matatu and bus drivers or the suicidal Tuk-Tuk drivers, we could have easily believed that we had been “disapperated” to Italia…

Alas, as soon as we left the town boundaries to the north it was clear as the water was not that we were still in Kenya with the reminisce of tar serving as what the locals refer to as a “road”. This one was particularly interesting as someone, at some point, had tried to fix the pot holes. The result was that you would think that the holes had been fixed, judging from the difference in colour on the surface, only to realize too late to do anything about it that a brand new rubber eating monster had appeared just beyond the patch. Then again, just for fun and the confusion factor, there were stretches of perfectly new tarmac road where you could drive comfortably at any speed you chose to without the constant fear of breaking something on the car. They would never last of course and their ends would generally be unannounced and unceremonious. The result being that once you felt your kidneys jump around inside your body, you reliably knew that it was the end of the good road.

At some point the tar stopped completely. I much preferred bad dirt road to bad rat road and this one seemed to be made from crushed coral, compacted into mud. It was fairly rough, but the going was easy and we were only over taken by busses every ten minutes or so. What I found a little concerning at the time was the obvious and active increase in police presence in the area. The road blocks were more frequent and they actually stopped us at every one of them, in contrast to the rest of
Kenya where the police seemed uninterested in us. The second road block’s man asked me where our armed escort was. When I argued, as I had so many times before, that we had no spare seat and no place for an extra body to sit, he informed me that it was only advisable to have an escort and not compulsory. My honest feeling on the subject was that it would be hard to argue that you “came in peace” when you had a man with an AK47 in your midst. So against his advice, we soldiered on. No pun intended….

Our fourth stop saw a gathering of police officers around the vehicle which made me a little more nervous than the speculative bandits in the area. I was still not 100% comfortable with the authorities in Kenya due to the amount of horror stories we had been told about them. This man, clearly a high ranking officer as he had no uniform, wanted to see our passports. Usually that would be easy to deal with, but as our passports had been sent to our respective countries of citizenship to obtain the elusive Ethiopian Visas, it was slightly trickier. I explained this to Mr. FBI and offered our international drivers licences as proof of ID. Surprisingly, this satisfied him completely and after a lengthy chat about African politics and South African football we wished us safe travels and sent us on our way. I was quite relieved.

The end of the road for us was the Mokowe Ferry dock, the closest place to ancient town and island of Lamu. This was said to be what Zanzibar used to be like before all the tourists came along and we were both excited and apprehensive to see what that was all about. At the ferry dock we were greeted by Mohamed (every second person seemed to be called that in the area) This Mohamed had a business offering shady parking and security for Mzungu cars while their owners went to the islands. He had heard about him before and he did came recommended, so we did not look further than that and parked Maggie under is high thatched roof. He obviously understood the space issues with roof top tents and loaded roof racks and catered for it well. He even offered to position our solar panel to best catch the sun during the day. The fee for his efforts: A reasonable $3 a day.

Our next mission was to find a ferry to take us to the island. We were touted like you could not believe and offered anything from barges to speed boats and while declining every offer without considering we were desperately searching for the ticket office… which did not exist. Once we had given up on our search we had learnt that you had but two options to get to the islands: You could take a public boat, which appeared to be a big wooden Dhow with an inboard engine, stacked to the rafters with people and produce and taking about forty minutes to cross the channel while at least two people were constantly bailing water with old oil bottles that had been modified. The cost was a fixed rate of $0.50. For $1 you could share a speed boat (Read fibre glass tub with outboard engine) which seated eight and took ten minutes to get across without the need of bailing water. A no brainer then… we took the speed boat.

Once we were deposited at the Lamu Old Town jetty (Read concrete bit which reaches the water at high tide only) we were immediately approached by Ziwa, an elderly man with funky sun glasses and a reflective vest indicating that he was the chairman of the Lamu tourism organisation. We were pretty convinced that it was a self proclaimed position, but he definitely demanded respect from the young met and seemed to know every single person in that town by their first names. In a calm, non threatening and friendly way he explained that he was there to help us find a hotel, free of charge, and to offer us the various tourism activities his fair city had. We agreed that he could show us to Yumbe House, our chosen place of residence while on the island, thus escaping the eager offerings of the other touts around. On the Kenya coast they are apparently called Beach Boys, but I doubt if their music would ever make it big.

Yumbe house was a breathtakingly fantastic place! It was a converted traditional Swahili house built from coral… Yes, coral… It was five stories high and had roofs thatched from coconut leaves. The concrete floors were sparklingly clean, the communal areas were breezy and cool which was very important there and the rooms were spacious, clean, en suite and decorated with traditional Swahili furniture and grass mats on the floors. It had a leafy and generous courtyard offering refuge from the blistering sun at any time of day and thanks to the thickness of the walls, the dining area was a constant, comfortable temperature too. It was perfectly situated and well priced at $25 a room a night, including breakfast. We sign up for two days.

After checking in and paying it was Ziwa’s turn to peddle his wares. He told us about his city tour and full day dhow trips for fishing or snorkelling as well as some traditional villages and a dhow factory we could visit. Everything came at a price off course. The Lonely Planet published a Ksh 500 ($12) price tag for a dhow trip which Ziwa told us would cost Ksh 9 000 (Over $100) for a private hire. Apparently they had so many issues with tourists getting lost in the Mangroves and busted for smoking pot on the boats that they had to licence all tourist captains and obviously split the fee many ways to keep everyone happy. We opted to share a dhow with other people, but still had to fork out $50 for the pair of us. The tour of the city was charged at Ksh 2 000 ($25) but we though it would be worth it, so sign up for that as well.

With all activities planned and paid for, it was time to try out the effectiveness of the fan and the comfort of the Swahili bed in our room. The siesta lasted until 16:00 when Ziwa came by to collect us for our tour. It all seemed almost too good to be true. He told me that I was welcome to take as many photographs as I wanted, as long as I did not photograph police and that we were perfectly safe to walk around the town at any time of day or night. He kept telling us the reason for the safety was that the island consisted of 97% Muslims and I kept on wondering which hole we lived in around that day in September when the “safe Muslims” killed a few Americans… I knew that it was not fair to generalize like that, but then again, he started it! To be honest though, I did feel safe. This was not because of the religious practices in the 42 Mosques in the town or the fact that everyone seemed to be either going to Mosque or returning from Mosque 24/7, but it was because everyone on the island seemed to know each other by name and they were all friendly and happy and inviting in a charming sort of way.

Our town tour lasted about two hours. It was no way worth the $25 price tag as all Ziwa did was to follow the published walking tour of the Lonely Planet and talk to all his friends along the way. He gave us titbits of information about which Mosque had what importance and showed us the big houses that had been renovated and was then owned by foreigners from America and Spain and even talked about the castle belonging to the Sultan of Brunei on the island next to Lamu. We did get to interact with the locals a little bit and no seemed to mind so much that I was pointing my camera at them and we talked philosophy and politics for a little while as we waited for many of the island’s 3 000 donkeys to pass us by in the narrow streets. But, at the end of the day, we could have experience the same town in the same way and probably learned more about it by following the map and walking tour on page 307 of the Kenya Lonely Planet Guide.

We had decided not to bother with any catering equipment in our luggage, so once the sun had gone to bed we went in search of a suitable eating establishment. To my slight surprise I had to learn that the 97% Muslim population also did not consume stock or sell any for of alcohol on the island. I did find one fancy hotel selling beer at $2.50 a bottle, and had one before dinner. Their menu seemed expensive, so we opted for the Bush Gardens restaurant on the dock side instead. On our way there we were approached by a friendly young man who started his speech with: “Welcome to Lamu my friend…. How long have you been here…?” I was put off immediately and abruptly told him that he had nothing to on offer that I did not already have. He offered to escort us to where ever it was that we were going anyway and stopping in my tracks, I looked him in the eye and told him that all I really wanted was to be left alone. Slightly shocked he also stopped and slightly taken aback he said “sure man, but you should really try to be happy….” I felt suitably reprimanded for my rude behaviour and apologised immediately. He did leave us alone though, which was nice.

Dinner consisted of fresh fillet of Tuna, enough rice to feed a village in Somalia, a wagon load of vegetables and a beer mug of banana juice. Yip, the man sliced five bananas into a glass, added a couple of ice cubes and took a blender to it. It was like a meal on its own! After dinner we walked back to Yumbe in perfect safety and without a single beach boy approaching us. It was still unbelievably hot, so after a long cold shower I climbed onto the bed with wet torso and hair and turned the fan onto its highest setting. Sleep came quickly and comfortably.

Day 201:
The alarm woke us just before 7am and after another cold shower we headed down the flights of stairs to the breakfast table in the courtyard. Breakfast was served at 7:15 and c9onsisted of a huge plate of fresh fruit, scrambled eggs on toast and Coffee which had an interesting vanilla taste to it. It was formidable and delicious! Even before we had finished, our Dhow captain, Mohamed (Told you every second person was called Mohamed) arrived to escort us to his proud vessel. We met John and Liz, a retired Canadian couple who we were sharing the dhow with and followed the piper in single file through the narrow streets until we got to the docks. The tide was out, so the concrete steps were miles away from the water. We walked up to a dozen meters from the small dhow, waded in and climbed aboard. The crew consisted of captain Mohamed and a skinny young man who was obviously not important enough to be introduced to us.

At a guess I would say that the total length of the boat was about 15 feet, which was hardly the picture our beloved Ziwa had painted the day before. There was no shade, contrary to what Ziwa had said and there really wasn’t space for the six of us to sit comfortably, also not exactly what we had expected. Within minutes of setting off under power of 15 Yamaha horses we stopped in deeper water next to a dhow that was about three times the size. Both Catt and I got ready to change boast as we were convinced the bigger one was what the brochure had on it. Only Mohamed stopped us and sent his deck hand across to collect a piece of wood. This piece of wood was then expertly cut in two with a machete and with the help of two other peaces of wood, captain Mohamed constructed our shade. It was a cotton cloth covering the two thirds of the length of the boat and being held together by ropes made from coconut leaves. It was effective though.

Twenty minutes into our journey we arrived at a channel that linked the islands to the open ocean. We were still powering along and there was no inkling of using the sail that was dutifully rolled up and tied tight to the mast in front of us. I was miffed! It was obvious that Ziwa was the king of over promise and under deliver and that we were not the only Mzungus he had so blatantly ripped off with his long stories of expenses and licences. To top things off, Mohamed our trusty seaman was rolling the fattest joint I had ever seen! Along the channel we saw another dhow being long lined along as he did not have an outboard and we were almost rammed out the water by a 50 foot dhow with a big inboard engine.

Once we cleared the other side, things changed dramatically though. The mangroves gave way to clear blue ocean with a tiny swell and healthy breeze and Mohamed killed the Yamaha and instructed the deck hand to deploy the sail. All became silent apart from the ocean lapping at the sides of the sleek vessel and we both started really enjoying ourselves. We sailed close up to another tiny and uninhabited island and put down the anchor right on top of a coral reef. It was announced that we had reached our snorkelling spot. We were handed our snorkelling gear which consisted of old dirty masks and snorkels tied onto the wrong side with pieced of coconut leaf. Mohamed seemed proud of his knot skill, so I said nothing and spent the next fifteen minutes cleaning the gunk from the corners of the mask before carefully sliding into the water, avoiding contact with the coral.

The tide was high and the current strong. The visibility was fantastic though and the sea life prolific. I saw and identified a range of fish I had seen often while scuba diving and even a fairly rare Bird Wrasse swam across my nose. I was however very aware that I was not wearing a wet suite and knowing how rough and sharp coral is, I was a little uncomfortably being a meter above it in an environment where the waves determined my proximity. John managed to cut his foot open on some coral and because of the current we tired out within half an hour as well. It was fun, but short lived. I could not help but think that I would have enjoyed the fishing more, but Catt was less keen on that idea.

We lifted anchor and sailed over to the island of Manda Mtoto. This tiny island could be circumnavigated by foot in less than an hour and had a hot sandy beach of the kind you normally see in ship wreck movies. It was not entirely deserted as some fisherman had made a temporary camp on it, but they were glad to have some company. We went for a stroll and then a swim and then another stroll and a swim while the captain and the deck hand prepared our lunch. When it was ready we were called closer and after sustaining what felt like third degree burns on the soles of our feet from the insanely hot sand we sat down in the deep shade on a reed mat awaiting the food.

I was NOT disappointed! Once again there was a mountain of rice and a fantastic tomato based spicy sauce to go with it. The next thing that arrived was a whole rock cod, freshly caught and grilled on an open fire. The fish was about 40cm long and after I deboned the lot. The mountain of meat looked enough to feed at least a dozen hungry mouths. There were only four us eating from it. We managed well and just as I felt satisfied the fruit arrived. The plate had bananas, papaya, passion fruits and oranges on which I have to humbly admit we were unable to finish. Our trusty captain was not going hungry either as I saw the two lobster tails he cooked from himself and the other two he obviously saved for a later date.

While we were having lunch a bunch of people in uniform arrived on our deserted island. They were from an American military base and came to play some mid day football on the hot sand. I was amazed that anyone could move that much and that fast outside of the soothing water and less surprised when the football game ended within ten minutes of starting. The lot of them dove into the cool water and stayed there until well after we sailed away.

The journey back to Lamu old town was even more pleasant that the outbound journey. We used the sail much more often and the Captain had obviously had enough weed in him to slow him to the speed of a lazy sea cucumber. The sail bellowed out from the wind and the streamlined craft cleft through the clear blue water like it was floating through the air. We reached the channel and motored through that and set sail again on the other side. By the time we reached the Old Town port the tide was high and we managed to moor right on the concrete steps, allowing us to get to dry land without getting our feet wet. A last “asante sana” to Mohamed marked the end of a fantastic day out on the Indian Ocean.

It was past 16:00 by the time we had reached our cool and comfortable lodgings and after washing the salt water off us, Catt insisted on doing the “shopping” thing. I had given up on explaining that every shop we had seen since we set foot on Zanzibar had had exactly the same things and mostly at exactly the same prices. I had also given up on trying arguing that she should do the shopping thing without me so that she could take her time and so that I would not be in the way. So we went shopping… again… Browsing really, as I had no intention of opening my wallet and Catt was yet to replace her wallet that she lost a couple of weeks before. The shops did indeed have mostly the same wares as all the other shops I had been dragged into and indeed at the same prices. The best thing about Lamu for me was that there was only one street with shops on and it took no longer than 40 minutes to complete the exercise and it was still so hot that a cold beer was the only thing that made sense. This time we walked to the roof top bar of another fancy hotel and sat looking out over the harbour and sea while sipping on the cold beverages. The harbour was still a bustle of activity and the sailing dhows were still coming in by the dozen. The slow public boats were loading up to take their punters to the main land and the beach boys were still around touting whichever Mzungu dared set foot in the area. It was, to be fair, a pretty standard late afternoon on an African/Muslim/historical island and it was fantastic to be there to witness it.

For dinner we decided to spoil ourselves for a change. We selected yet another fancy hotel’s restaurant and both ordered fish… again. Once again it was better than words can describe. The waiter explained that a fisherman had to show the chef that the fish is still alive before the hotel would buy it, so every fish they cooked for dinner had not been out of the sea for more than three hours. I could believe it. Our chosen dish was Red Snapper, what ever that may look like, and it was white and fluffy and phenomenally tasty and filling. Not so filling that I could not fit in another Tusker Lager and not too filling for Catt to squeeze in a bowl of ice cream for desert. The bill totalled less that $30 and with that happy news we walked back to Yumbe, following the dark but safe alleys through the ancient Swahili houses.

Day 202:
Every day on the island seemed to end with a cold shower and every following day seemed to start with the same ritual. This day was no different. We woke up just before 7:00 and it was already piping hot outside! The shower was welcoming and sitting in the breakfast area with wet hair and slightly damp bodies was still very comfortable. Breakfast was the same as the day before and after a second cup of the strange coffee we set off towards the harbour in search of transport back to Maggie.

Once again I had to smile at the efficiency of informal transport in Africa. We were about a hundred meters away from the nearest boat when the first captain asked us which direction we were heading in. By the time we had reached the boats, we had a choice of five locations and at least double the amount of boats. There was a slow boat heading in the direction that we wanted, but it was only half full. We had already established that they would not sail unless the seats were filled. Within seconds there was a speed boat that had only two seats left and we jumped on board after confirming the price. This delivered us back at the port where we had left the car within fifteen minutes of us walking out of Yumbe house. It was an insanely efficient way to travel.

Mohamed the first met us by the car, assured us that everything was in order and while I paid him the agreed fee, Catt started opening bags to find the keys. Once Mohamed had left I opened the door and put my camera bag inside, got into the driver seat and looked towards Catt with some confusion. She was still searching her hand bag for the car keys. It did not take long to find them and when she got in she looked at me all concerned asking how I managed to get into the locked car. Realizing that we had forgotten to lock the car while we went to an island for a few days was almost comical! Ziwa was obviously right in the end. Everything was perfectly safe and as we had left it. As we started up Mohamed walked over and offered us Diesel and a car wash, which we both declined, smiling and happy seconds before bouncing down the dusty track towards the south.

The road was not nearly as bad as I had remembered it and it took relatively little time to reach our friendly policeman without he uniform. He recognized us by name, greeted us with a firm handshake and resumed the conversation we had had two days before. It seemed like quite a secluded police outpost and I did wander what such an obviously educated man had done to deserve that posting. He was also obviously starved for conversation as he engaged us for about twenty minutes while the busses and trucks passed us. At some point I offered to park in the shade and make some tea to go with our conversation, but he smilingly declined, wished us safe travels and sent us on our way. I was not nearly as nervous around him as with our first encounter, but I was still a little unsure of the safety of the area. I managed to catch up to one of the busses and started following that through the villages and Mangroves and open flood planes until we passed the last road block where the man asked us about an armed escort on our way north.

We passed Malindi, described to us as the Mini Naples of the world, stopped for some fresh vegetables and fruit close to Gede ruins and arrived on the outskirts of Mombasa by mid afternoon. It had been a very successful travelling day! The local butcher sold us some beef fillet for about $6 a kilogram and with food stores replenished we went in search of the recommended Mombasa Backpackers. Their poster on the notice boars at Yumbe house advertised there location as being one street block far and directly behind the butcher we were at, which seemed simple enough. At first we drove down the wrong street, but on our return up the next street along we spotted the picture definition of backpackers, so stopped to ask directions. The friendly ladies pointed us to a house less than a hundred meters behind us. There was no signage, no indication that if offered accommodation, but as soon as we stopped in front of the large metal gates, a Masai man opened them and showed us where to park.

We were only after a place to stop over, so facilities did not matter too much to us. I could immediately see that we were in for another night of car park parking. The house was a mansion though! It was three stories tall and had wide open living areas, a nice big bar area and massive TV screen in an ample lounge. The patio was inhabited by the typical traveller attracted to Backpackers lodges and came complete with the resident drunk who was sitting with two beers in his hands and obviously slightly inebriated. To my surprise I learnt that he was the owner… of the business, not the house. The house had a huge For Sale sign at the front which was why I guessed they had not put up signage. Through bloodshot eyes he told us that they were renting it while looking for a bigger place. I wasn’t convinced, but their price for camping was almost nothing, so we decided to cook our fillet in the car park and stay out of everyone’s way.

While the fire was burning away I made a trip to the kitchen to find some water for washing our newly purchased vegetables. As soon as I walked into the front door the all too familiar sweet smell of the funny green tobacco hit me straight on. I wandered through the bar to see no less than four patrons, as well as the owner and his partner “skinning up” and they all seemed stoned enough to pass out any second. The lounge had three inhabitants and they were already fast asleep in front of the 42” LCD screen. The cook was the only compos mentis person around and we had a quick chat before I had to return to the outside world of fresh air in fear of getting stoned myself.

Now… that fillet… While Catt made a massively interesting and huge salad consisting of every conceivable thing you can put into a salad, I briefly introduced the dead cow to the heat of the coals and then took it away before spoiling it. It was just warm through and given half a chance it would have probably tried to snack on the salad itself. It was, without a shadow of a doubt, the best beef I had tasted since leaving the great pastures of South Africa. In fact, it was better than most steaks I had had for as long as I could remember, but calling it the best steak I had ever had may be a slight exaggeration. Suffice to say that I could not remember ever having steak better than that. Saving some for the next day’s lunch was a concept that flew out the window without argument and after licking my lips and fingers and even the plate it had been on I wished that I cooked the other half as well. I vowed to save it for a special occasion.

Day 203:
The stoners must have passed out long before we went to bed as it ended up being a brilliantly quiet night, offering a light rain to cool to air and fantastic rest for our weary bodies. The place was as quiet as a church on Monday morning when we got up. Trying not to disturb anyone, we packed away the tent and the rest of our stuff before going for a shower. It was still so hot that neither one of us were interested in opening the hot tap to find out if hot water existed, but what did take me by complete surprise was that the water from the taps were salty. Even the water in the kitchen sink was salty. That explained the mountain of empty beer bottles outside the kitchen door I though.

Not wanting to face any more weird surprises in the house of fun, we left the money in the bar tab book and headed out just after 8:00. A quick stop at a roadside welder to fix one of the exhaust supports… again… saw us ready to travel, but we decided to see one or two sites in Mombasa first. The strangely named Fort Jesus, built by the Portuguese in 1593 to enforce their rule of the Swahilis of the East Africa coast was reportedly the biggest tourist attraction in Mombasa. We had heard about it from our guide at Gede as well as Ziwa on Lamu, so decided to investigate that first. We were shown a parking spot next a bank by a man who was either very drunk, or very stoned and just as I was explaining that we really did not want him to wash the car, a friendly, well dressed man pointed out the slightly hidden, but guarded and free museum car park. We moved Maggie there.

Peter Toller was the man in question and he was a registered safari and tourism guide, working the scene in downtown Mombasa in between wildlife safari trips. He was well spoken, obviously knowledgeable and came straight to the point: He would guide us through the ruins, and then through Mombasa Old Town, a world heritage sight like Lamu Old town for a fee of $25. The trip would take around three hours with the ending being a traditional Swahili coffee house. I immediately took a liking in him, so agreed to his services, trying not to think about our disastrous Lamu town tour for the same price.

From the outset I could see that this was going to be different. Peter told us about the history of the fort and how the Portuguese never managed to hold onto it for long. In fact, it changed hands no less than nine times between 1631 and 1875 when it was finally under British control. The ingenious design of the fort meant that no enemy could attack one wall without being open targets for the defending force from another vantage point. There were ruins of old barracks, some restorations of old Portuguese wall paintings and a clever passage cut out of the coral to give the fort access to the sea. The old harbour had coral sides and a natural twenty meter drop of into a central channel. As late as the 1990’s someone discovered a buried skeleton in the fort’s confines which was later determined to be older than 300 years and from Christian (So Portuguese) origin.

A quick walk through the museum itself marked the end our Fort tour and shortly after we spilled out onto the cool streets of Mombasa Old Town. Peter, like Ziwa, seemed to know everyone by name. He pointed out buildings of significance and introduced us to the local tradesman and shop keepers. With Peter by our sides no one bothered us with touting and no one seemed to care about the big camera I was pointing at them while clicking away. The most impressive shop we went into belonged to a traditional Swahili wood carver. If I had the money, and a container, and owned a house, we would have furnished the whole thing from that one store. It was breathtaking stuff! The friendly proprietor took his time to show us around and explain the pieces and customary meaning of them. Apparently, when a Swahili man gets married, he has to present his new bride with four pieces of furniture: A bed (Obviously), a corner dressing table, a coffee table and a wooden chest for her secret things. These were all carved from Mangrove and Teak with beautiful patterns and precious metal decorations. Catt had a scary twinkle in her eye, so we had to leave.

After visiting the old harbour itself, we walked down a narrow street to the Coffee house. We cleverly selected the room with cushions on the floor where you had to leave your shoes outside as we rightly guessed that it would be the coolest in temperature. Catt ordered a Masala Chai. This spicy tea contains: Cardamom, Cinnamon, Black Pepper, Ginger and Cloves. Peter and I both ordered Swahili Coffee, which on arrival seemed to be little different to the tea, but tasty none the less. The conversation around the low table was however the most interesting of the afternoon. Peter explained how the Somalia Pirates plagued the coast of Kenya to the point of Cruise ships not stopping in Mombasa any longer. Those same Somalis apparently bought all the biggest houses and most expensive properties along the coast as well, driving the prices so high that locals could not afford them any longer. I had to laugh at this and explain to him that we had the same problems around Cape Town in South Africa. Not the piracy, but the wealthy foreigners ruining the housing market for the local buyers.

I carefully asked him about the unrest after the last election in Kenya in 2007. He bluntly and bravely stated that the current president, in his opinion, stole the elections and should not be in power at all. He did go on to explain the positive way in which the new constitution had been received by all Kenyans and how the government was making tangible headway in getting rid of corrupt politicians and officials. He also told us that the best investment in Kenya at the time would have been to buy as much land as you could on Lamu Island. Plans had been approved to build a new and modern harbour there and the end of a massive oil pipeline linking the oil fields of Northern Uganda and Southern Sudan to their closest port. That explained the influx of foreign property owners we were told about by Ziwa.

It was a very interesting conversation in deed, but after more than three hours spent in Peter’s company, it was time to hit the road again. He walked us right to the door of Maggie, bade us safe travels and waved as we drove away. I felt really pleased about spending the money and the time with someone as knowledgeable as that and wished that we could have had the same experiences in Lamu. Driving through the streets of Mombasa we noticed, if possible, an even more aggressive driving style than in Nairobi, but managed to survive the few kilometres to the Mombasa/Nairobi hi-way in a relatively short time.

The sheer amount of trucks on the road were mind boggling, but then again, one had to remember that this was the major port for Kenya, Uganda, Southern Sudan and the eastern DRC. The plus side was also that the drivers of the trucks were as lawless as the Matatu drivers and the police presence non existent, so it wasn’t as if they were slowing us down much. We had decided to return to the Red elephant Lodge by Voi for a stop over and arrived in between the bamboo and palm trees next to the inviting swimming pool just before 16:00.

As it was getting dark, our friendly Askari who had engaged us in conversation the previous time we stayed there came around to say hallo. He also said that there were Elephants at the water hole and offered to show us. I was very keen to see these Elephants covered in the blood red dust of the area, so we happily followed him to the other side of the lodge. There was an electrified fence between us and the herd, but we ended up standing within 50 meters from them, amazed at the bizarre colour they had adapted. The family had a few young animals as well and one tiny little clumsy baby was, according to our new friend and in pronto guide, only two days old. It was still hairy and seemed almost blind and completely unfamiliar with the use of its trunk and legs. The askari walked right up to the fence and held his hand high above his head for a young bull to see. It was if they were communicating and after kicking up some dust and a little ear flapping, the bull walked off in search of more water. We watched the herd until it was too dark to see them before returning to our camp. It was an absolutely, stunningly unexpected treat and we loved all of it!

If I had to do it all again:
Staying in or near an African village on a weekend is a mistake and we should really learn that lesson now. Edelweiss was great in the week, but that last noisy night spoilt it for me.

The town tour on Lamu was just not worth it. The place is so small and compact and friendly and well sign posted, that there is simply no need for a guide. When we were sold on the idea of the tour, we had had no time to check things out by ourselves, so my advice would be not to commit to any activities before spending at least one afternoon walking around and exploring by yourself. Oh, and if you want some booze, take it with you. Hotels have fridges in the rooms, but if you want to buy any kind of alcohol on the island, get ready to be ripped off!

Mombasa Backpackers had a handy location and really cheap price for us, but if you adverse to the dope smoking culture, best seek alternative accommodation.

Yip, that’s about it. The rest was brilliant, slightly off the major tourist track and highly recommended!

Thursday, October 14, 2010

28: Nairobi to Voi (Kenya)



Nairobi, Timbila, Voi

Day 190:
Nothing happens fast in Africa! We all knew that. What we did not know was that nothing happens even slower in Nairobi and especially at Jungle Junction where it was so easy, relaxing and fun to hang out and especially after yet another night of heavy drinking with our new friends.

In fairness to the concept of not being able to remember names so well and all the other poor souls that had suffered from instant nicknaming, it was agreed that we would refer to Adam and Chloe collectively as “Moglove”, for the name of their website in the UK.

So… Moglove got up even later than we did and did about as much as we did during the morning hours of abusing the Junction’s free wifi. With the Duchies gone there was no rush for the showers and I do believe we braved it first, around 11:30. Before that I managed to catch up on the freshest gossip on my favourite internet forums, read the news online and even upload our website from the Mac for the first time since visiting Mukambi Lodge in Zambia, 5 countries and an amazing 18 weeks earlier. I was once again reprimanded by my dear wife for not investing in a smart phone before we left South Africa as amazingly, that would have been the easiest way of internet communication in Africa. I had to laugh a little at how she magically managed to turn every conversation into obtaining the latest Iphone after Adam entered our circles.

World news was a little disturbing. What they did report on was some unrest in Sudan due to a referendum and upcoming elections. Southern Sudan reportedly wanted independence and northern Sudan, obviously knowing about the wealth of natural resources in the south, wasn’t too keen on the idea. Our master plan put us in the fair country of the Sudan (The north that is) slap bang in the middle of the referendum and elections. We made a mental note to leave before the elections!

The next news item was all about unrest in Egypt because of their upcoming elections which were due around the time we were heading that way. Fantastic! Election year for all of Africa it seemed!

The most disturbing part was that there was no news on Rwanda. Robert and Clary, who went to Rwanda two weeks after us, picked up a local news paper in Kigali and then fled the country after reading it. That was only two weeks earlier. The newspapers reported no less than two grenade attacks in Kigali, no less than four people, including a UN officer killed at a roadblock, another road block saw the slaughter of 17 people on a bus and sixteen Hutu got Machete’d to death and the corpses thrown in a river in the south of the country. The Rwandan army went after some of the perpetrators and entered the DRC uninvited. The news reported on the UN arresting a Rwanda rapist in the DRC, but nothing more.

I stopped reading the news then and slightly depressed at the idea of the world’s political turmoil concluded that baking banana bread in the Cobb was the only solution.

That evening Catt and I cooked for Moglove. They had been on the road for almost five months and had reportedly only cooked five times. We felt it our duty to educate them on the pleasures of camp cooking and spoil them to a culinary feast as only Catt could conjure up using the Cobb and our trusty MSR stove. It all seemed almost too good to be true and even the weather played along!

Adam shared stories of how his mom managed to get a pre approved credit card in her dog’s name and how he used to shoot pigeons with an air rifle from his roof terraced apartment on the Thames. We obviously shared stories of travels and Land Cruisers which actually work most of the time. They had been stuck in Nairobi for a couple of weeks waiting for a part for the Unimog… This had been the third place they had been stuck since their trip had started.

Day 191:
It was Saturday morning in Nairobi and the natives were restless. We woke up to crowds in the streets, blowing whistles and the dreaded Vuvuzela we thought we had left behind in South Africa. Some sort of precession passed close by Jungle Junction, setting the dogs off barking and running in circles and forced us to face the reality of another day… not leaving Nairobi.

We had to force ourselves to leave the camp as our food stores were depleted to such an extent that we had only meat left. I found very little wrong with this ratio, but my Dietician wife had other ideas. Conceding that she was probably right, we decided to brave the streets of the big city in search of a grocery store. Fruit and vegetables were easy; we could simply walk to the corner of the street and buy from a well stocked, informal, insanely cheap open air market, as you do in Africa. Still, the thing that clinched the deal for me was that we were completely out of wine!

After much investigating and effort we finally also concluded that all our electrical problems were due to a worn out and damaged cranking battery that simply did not hold its charge any longer. This was by far the best conclusion for us as any other problem would have been from faulty wiring, which we knew little about. Apparently rough roads and long driving hours can do that to a battery. Who would have thought it? So our mission for the day was clear.

Moglove recommended a battery retailer behind a 24 hour super market. Yip, we were still in Kenya! They still had 24 hour supermarkets and I still had a hard time digesting the idea. This particular Nakumat super store was absolutely massive and had departments for everything and anything, much like a Wallmart of Tesco Extra… only bigger. The down side was that we found the reason for the early morning noise along the way. There was a football match between Kenya and Uganda that day and the stadium was right across the road from our chosen shopping complex. The traffic was horrific, but no where near as bad as a normal day in Dar es Salaam and besides, we had plenty of wildlife to entertain us on route. Every roundabout had Marabou storks guarding every lamp post and swooping down with astonishing agility to scoop up any and every bit of food littered by the Omni-present inhabitant of the African taxi/Matatu/ Minibus… or whatever you call them where you are from. It was like a match made in heaven and I could only dream about the amount of cash the Kenya government was saving on cleaning staff.

The super Nakumat came complete with parking and Askaris assuring us that we would be safe. A fully stocked and well planning department store was so novel to us at the time that we had decided to walk up and down every single isle regardless of whether we thought we needed something from that isle or not. It was about an hour and a half later we emerged into sunlight again to the swelling traffic and pedestrian volume on their way to the stadium. We had found everything that we set out to find and even, on impulse, decided to replace our ground tent with a smaller, lighter, sleeker one that looked like it had some build quality. Sorry Rocky….

Our next mission was the battery man. We found his store, had a chat and got a recommendation for a battery that he did not have in stock. I found that a pretty honest opinion, so left happy, still praying that Maggie would start when I turned the key. This I had down to a fine art by then. I knew that if the engine did not take on the third revolution of cranking, the battery would not crank it again. I had only failed once in the previous two days and then managed to jump start it from the auxiliary battery. In fact, the only time I ever needed help starting the engine was at the Cheetah sighting in the Masai Mara… go figure!

We had heard of and been referred to a seemingly phantom suspension expert in Nairobi called Rob’s Magic. Obviously yet another Australian aftermarket suspension specialist and I was fairly convinced their product would be similar in quality and price to all the other Australian aftermarket suspension people you found around the world. What I was however more interested in was shock absorber bushes made from Teflon, which allegedly were supposed to be indestructible. Rob’s Magic reportedly had them in stock. We followed the GPS to an industrial estate, braving some more football traffic to find that the Magic had moved, and no one could tell us where to. We had given up on that idea and head back to the safety of Jungle Junction.

Close to the Junction we found another Nakumat store. Not as big as the one we had just come from, but impressive none the less and in the same centre we saw a Java Café and a Cinema! The previous time we went to the cinema was about six months before our trip started, so we decided to treat ourselves to a bit of western normality on a Saturday afternoon while the masses of Nairobi watched the footie. Lunch in the Café was a juicy Hamburger and Chips and our selected film was called Wall Street and featured Michael Douglas as a crooked trader. It portrayed the start of the recent recession and the reasons for it and ended up being little more than a love story. We liked it a lot! What struck me most of all was that all the previews had films in 3D advertised. This had been a rare thing six months before when we were living in the developing world of South Africa.

After the film we headed the ten minutes back to Jungle Junction in relative peace but by the time we reached camp I felt sick as a dog! The day’s excitement had obviously taken its toll, or the oil in the deep fat fryer at Java was off. Needless to say that I skipped the rest of the day’s reality and after pitching the tent went straight to bed before the sun went down. What followed was a restless, feverish nights with vivid and deeply disturbing dreams. I remember waking up hot or cold and mostly uncomfortable all the time and every time I dared lift my head or open my eyes I felt like throwing up, so gave up on that idea instantly! Even drinking water did not seem possible.

Day 192:
Thirteen hours of attempted sleep had me right as rain again and I felt fairly relieved at not waking up with a fever and a confirmed case of Malaria. In fact, I felt awake, alert and full of energy and ready to take on the world! The world however was having a Sunday and was not ready to be taken on at all! The camp was dead quiet and even the two dogs were still sleeping in the shade of the big Unimog. In fact, Moglove had gone away for the weekend, leaving the truck behind, so the dogs had undisturbed shade for two days.

After showering off the feverish smell I managed to accumulate during the night I brewing a fantastic cup of the good stuff (Kenyan Coffee) we decided to pitch our new, small ground tent. This took all of two minutes, but we also decided to try it out, so we moved our mattress into it and changed the bedding. Fever smells really bad!

We lazed the morning away reading, writing and skype-ing to the parentals and for lunch, with an appetite that returned with great vengeance, I walked to the corner fruit and veg seller to procure an avocado. The chosen fruit was, predictably, the size of a small Pacific Island and cost about $0.08. Walking the fifty meters back to the camp site I did marvel at how easy life in Africa sometimes was and started wondering about how much I would miss that once our trip concluded. I stopped the nonsense of thinking straight away!

After lunch we hopped in the car and as the engine roared into life on the second turn of the flywheel, we set off towards the suburb of Karen, named for Karen Blixen who, amongst other things, wrote Out Of Africa. She was not our interest though. On the edge of the affluent suburb with it’s crappier than thou roads where a 4x4 was essential (Like most affluent areas in Africa) laid the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife’s Giraffe Centre. (www.giraffecentre.org) This was the destination of our Sunday afternoon outing in Nairobi.

This fantastic peace of land on the edge of the massive city and almost bordering the Nairobi National Park was home to some twelve Giraffes we counted and also plays host to the stately Giraffe Manor where reportedly Bill Clinton and Nelson Mandela had stayed. Kenyans had a thing about telling you about famous people who visited their fair land. On arrival we paid our entry fee and walked straight up some stairs to a platform where… there was a massive Giraffe bull eating from the hands of a tiny girl.

At the top of the stairs we received Giraffe snacks by the hand full, walked up the gentle beasts and held out the pellets one by one. With their dangerously long tongues they gently picked the food off our palms and even hung around for a little scratch behind the ear and around the neck. It was an absolutely fantastic, rewarding and unbelievable experience where we just looked at each other without expression or words and smiled often and much.

As the day grew on and the shadows longer more Giraffe came to join the tea party and we were introduced to Honey, the resident breeding female. She had been there long enough to be completely habituated and as demonstrated by the tiny girl, I placed a pellet on my own tongue. Honey expertly kissed me, with tongue I’ll have you know, and snatched it off in an instant. I did know that Giraffe saliva was antiseptic to help them cope with eating leaves from thorny bushes and that you could not contract any diseases from them, so the party trick was completely safe, but special in a very surreal way. Her young came along after a while and they were just too short to reach the eager hands of tourists in the platform. I leant over the barrier and reached down with my arm at full stretch and that was just enough to place the food on their waiting, salivating tongues.

Neither one of us really wanted to leave the centre, but the day was ending and it was time to go. I did not enquire about the rates of the Giraffe Manor, but from a distance it looked pretty pricey! We were told that the Giraffe go to the manor for their breakfast snack every morning and that guests on the second storey got to feed them daily.

On the half an hour drive back Jungle Junction we stopped off only to buy more phone credit so that we could fire off some sms’s to our respective countries to brag about our afternoon outing. We spent a quick half an hour selecting photos and uploading them to blogs and websites and went to bed knowing how jealous we had made a score of people in different parts of the world. I could not help but think about how fantastically ingenious the big bad internet was in globalizing our experience within hours of having it!

Day 193:
The day started on the same high as the previous day had ended. We woke to bird song and dog barking… at the birds… and leapt into action instantly! Our mission was clear. We needed a new battery, some engine oil and we needed to courier our passports to our respective countries to obtain visas for Ethiopia. People used to get them in Nairobi, but after our trip had started the rules changed and that was no longer possible.

I was always amazed at our raw talent for leaving our belongings strewn all over the inside of our vehicle when we hadn’t moved for a while or didn’t need to get moving early the next day. This day was no different. It took a good 10 minutes packing things away, but I did manage to get Maggie started on the third engine turn and without using the jumper cables.

As I let the engine warm up I packed the last of the things away that was covering my seat and Catt did the same. I then heard the most horrible sentence of the trip that far: Honey, have seen my wallet anywhere? That would be the wallet with the credit cards, the bank cards, the $300 in US currency and the KSH 40 000 ($250) we withdrew the previous day as well as Catt’s driver’s licence in. “Ehm, no, I haven’t” came the hesitant answer followed by the frantic but thorough search of the car. This meant unpacking everything we had packed and then the rest of the things we owned. It meant Catt double checking my areas and me double checking her areas and it meant asking the security staff and Duncan, the reception man. The wallet was MIA.

We sat down to catch our breaths and think about it and by lack of a better idea; we decided to retrace our steps of the previous day. We drove back to the place we bought the phone credit and asked around, but had to leave empty handed, disappointed but not really surprised. We drove back to the Giraffe centre and asked around and I was convinced that it was the kind of environment where people would actually hand a wallet full of cash in at the reception. Again they had no record of it and again we had to leave disappointed.

We stopped at another recommended battery seller, but he did not have what we needed either, so we moved on.

We drove back to Jungle Junction and desperately searched the car again. We even, and just for a second, looked around the campsite and campers suspiciously, but then I remembered the KHS 5 000 that was lying out in the open on Catt’s seat and that was still there when we got into the car. We had to face facts: The wallet dropped out of the car when we got out at some point. There was no other logical explanation.

The internet came in magically handy again as we used Skype to cancel the cards, orders new ones and even applied for a new driver’s licence for Catt. Apart from the hassle, our only other loss was the mountain of cash, but in the bigger scheme of trip finance, we were confident that we would be able to make it up over the following month.

Our antics took up most of the day and although we eventually made it to a DHL office and manage to print our visa application forms, we did not get a new battery… we did not get engine oil… and we did not in the end courier our passports off.

I wish I could end this story with… And then we found the wallet in the fridge, or something humorous like that, but alas, I can not. The wallet was gone forever and we were a little depressed about that. The up side was that I actually did have another credit card in my wallet, so our trip did not need to be put on hold while waiting for means to get money. That was our only redundancy.

Back at the Junction we saw Moglove after their weekend and their disastrous Monday and compared notes: They had been stranded in Nairobi for some weeks waiting for a part for the Unimog to be cleared by customs. This was a part replaced under guarantee and was invoiced to have a zero value. That was flagged by Kenya customs and they had spent six hours trying to clear customs… after it had been there for more than a week… unsuccessfully. Our day was actually acceptable in frustration comparison.

For the first time since we had arrived at Jungle Junction no one was in the mood for a party and after a simple dinner for two Catt and I went to bed early, exhausted!

Day 194:
Early to bed and early to rise! It was a brand new day and we had put the wallet incident behind us. Well, I was still allowed to tease Catt about it at the appropriate times and tell people that she was no longer allowed a wallet, but only sometimes… and only when I was feeling brave.

We were dedicated and determined to achieve our simple goals for the day and I couldn’t wait to start. We found engine oil at less than half the price of what the same brand cost in South Africa. We passed by the Ethiopian embassy to ask about VISAS. We knew the probably answer, but decided to ask anyway. We hoped that every overlander that passed through Nairobi would do the same and with a little luck annoy the staff so much that they will one day issue visas there again. Small things often amused us most. Catt walked inside while I minded the car. I didn’t have enough confidence to turn the engine off after our short drive which obviously sparked the interest of the Askari guarding the embassy entrance. He knocked on the window and while opening it I started to explain the predicament and reasoning for idling the car in front of his domain. He was however far more interested in the GPS than the idling engine and asked me to explain how it worked. At first I tried the scientific approach of explaining satellites and triangulation but the blank expression on his face indicated that I was loosing him fast. Instead I asked him where he was from. He mentioned some small village in the north of Kenya and as I typed in the letters, the machine answered faithfully. I pushed the “go to” button and the familiar pink line we had been following religiously for the preceding six and a half months appeared on the screen. The man was knocked out cold by this amazing technology!

Catt arrived back at the car, puzzled by my in depth conversation about satellites in space and the universe and the man on the moon so we left, following the pink line I had just talked about with a smiling Askari in our rear view mirror. I had a feeling that I had made a friend. We were on our way to the lucky third battery dealer in some industrial estate on the opposite side of the city. I knew that it was going to be hard work through the traffic but at that time had a better than fair understanding of the road rules.

When first arriving in Nairobi you may think that road rules don’t exist at all and it is utter chaos, which would be a fair conclusion. However, spending some time there you get to know the “code” that obviously replaced the rules when the government in their infinite wisdom decided to turn the traffic lights off to save electricity… or something. The first rule was it was not necessarily that the most aggressive person had right of way, as in Dar and Kampala. (There, I’ve done it! I swore never to refer to the fair city of Dar Es Salaam by it’s short, basterdised name, but I also never thought I’d refer to it so often… “Dar” is so much simpler.) Anyway: The person hanging a limp wrist out the window while moving it in a nonchalant circle actually has right of way. This limp wrist technique can be employed by either driver or passenger and the confidence in the code is so high, that it is usually followed by a blind turning in that direction regardless of what other vehicles there may be. I saw a guy in a mini stop a bus dead in its tracks using this technique. Obviously indicators don’t mean squat! Most people who do use them forget to turn them off again, or simply have them blinking away as a confusion tactic for fresh arrivals in the city. The thing to watch out of, while ignoring orange blinking lights on the corners of vehicles, is definitely the limp wrist! In fact, I started thinking that indicators may have been seen as nothing more than decoration, or “Bling”, enhancing the vehicles already brilliant looks.

The limp wrist technique can also be used to single a driver to overtake you. Although really subtle, there are distinct differences between the “pass me” signal and the “I will fit into this space and if you don’t let me I’ll crash into you just for fun” signal. It could best be described as a single half circular, clockwise movement with a limp wrist which could sometimes be confused with someone wiping the dust of the side of their doors. Once again this can be done by either driver or passenger and the fact that there nothing but sidewalk on the passenger side does not mean that you are not allowed to undertake.

If however you STRONGLY disagree with someone, or something another driver had done, or is about to do, you do what we started referring to as “the light bulb move” Imagine if you will, putting your hand head height next to your ear, fingers facing upwards without making a fist and twisting your wrist in the same way you would screw and unscrew a light bulb repeatedly and quickly with an expression is dismay on your face, that would be it. It beats the hell out of screaming and shouting and actually achieves the occasional apology from an obvious offender. It could even, when done with conviction and with the perfect timing, deter a prospective offender from doing something stupid in the first place. No one uses a horn apart from warning cyclists who are facing the wrong direction and who are seemingly oblivious to the approaching, speeding tonnes of metal or as a friendly greeting to other drivers.

Add to this the vast amount of Marabou Storks perching on the lamp posts awaiting the tiniest scrap being thrown out the window of a Matatu, which should never be confused with either limp wrist signal, and you get an hour and a half of fun braving downtown traffic in Nairobi on an idle Tuesday in October.

Chris from Jungle Junction directed us to the Excide battery warehouse. We were already the proud owners of an Excide deep cycle battery for our fridge and as it had done us proud thus far, replacing the cranking battery with the same brand seemed logical. The best part was that they had exactly what we needed at a very good price as well. While waiting for the serviceman to install the new battery, I marvelled at the solar panels and wind generators in the show room. I got excited about the advances in “clean energy” that I had learnt about along the way as well what the immediate future held in store. It has to be said that I would have happily installed the new battery myself, but according to the technician, I simply did not have the skill with a number 13 spanner to undo two nuts, to replace the tired battery with the new one and to redo the two nuts again successfully. He even made me sign a piece of paper to indicate that I was satisfied with the installation and assured me of the one year guarantee on the new hardware. I could see that he was a man who could get excited about batteries…

With that much success already achieved, we decided to once again go in search of the phantom suspension place, Rob’s Magic. On our way to the area we were told it might be we managed to mail a birthday card to Catt’s mom from the Kenya Posta. Nothing could be that simple though, so first we had to find a stationary shop to buy an envelope. The actual Post Office didn’t sell envelopes at all and the only reason I could come up with for this lack of foresight was that they were not actually allowed to make a profit or be a business. Any other explanation would not have made any sense at all.

Leaving the scene we turned a corner and were faced by a couple of mile long cue of traffic in the direction we wanted to go. I lost interest in all things suspension instantly and did a U-Turn, using the limp wrist technique and the pavement in the way I had been educated by my fellow road users. The closest shopping centre to our save haven at the Junction had a UPS office. Their initial quote to send our passports was 25% less than DHL and I knew that they used the same agent in Kenya. The friendly lady who helped us did however not instil much confidence. First she mistook the words “United Kingdom” for USA and then, as if by magic, she did the same with “South Africa”. At least we got to write our own envelopes and fill in our own paperwork and pay the correct fee as per her fee schedule. I was still not convinced that we would ever see our passports again, but what can you do?

We arrived back at Jungle Junction for lunch, proud and impressed that we had managed to achieve in one morning what we had been trying to do in almost a week. Determination was obviously the key!

Midway through the afternoon Chloe arrived back from the airport with their long awaited part in hand. She had had a magically successful morning convincing the customs officials that she was actually allowed to get the thing that was addressed to her and that it was nothing more than a circuit board and actually not worth anything at all. She had to agree some value and pay a small import duty to make Mr Customs save face, but it was negligible and she even got an official receipt for it. We celebrated our respective successes by sharing a freshly bakes Chocolate and Chilli Cake and some fine Kenyan Coffee.

Moglove had a dinner arrangements with some friends in Nairobi that evening. I thought that was a shame as we really got along incredibly well and we have really enjoyed having them over for dinner and a party one last time. We still had our dinner in our quiet corner of the camp site and politely greeted the few other campers who had been moving through the place while we had been there and went to bed at a perfectly respectable time. We had to, as we were finally moving on the next day.

It must have been just before 23:00 when I heard some voices outside our tent. Adam had a loud one, so it was unmistakably Moglove who had returned and was not ready to go to bed yet. We were only half asleep at the time anyway, so we got dressed, got out of the tent and raided the camp’s fridge for some beer. The party had started!

We sat around our table chatting away and sipping our beverages like old friends and by the time the four of us decided to call it a night, the clock read 2:30. It was fairly obvious that Catt and I would not leave early the next day.

Day 195:
I felt surprisingly good when I opened my eyes and when I looked at the clock the mystery was solved instantly; it was past 8:00, so we still managed a decent night’s sleep despite our early hour antics. Catt on the other hand did not share my enthusiasm for the new and exciting day. I could instantly see that things were not going to happen fast at all.

By the time we had showered and packed up and checked our emails for the last time it was almost 10:00 and even Moglove was up and awake by then. Deciding not to break the seal on our newly purchased engine oil container, I bought a little from the Junction’s workshop to top up and eventually, after another round of greetings and salutations we hit the road. It was almost surreal to leave a place after staying there for longer than any other place we had stayed in more than half a year.

Our adventures simply had to continue and our destination was a place called “The Red Elephant Lodge” towards Mombasa and according to the co-ordinates I got from Robert and Clary, pretty much in the shadow of Kilimanjaro. It was going to be a long drive, but I was ready for it and feeling strong. The first mission was crossing the city once again, but we had done this enough times in the week to actually know the short cuts! It took some time, but soon the road stretched out wide in front of us and the intensity of the trucks on in decreases exponentially as we continued east. All indications were that we would reach our destination by 16:00…

The fastest way to travel was often not also the shortest route and getting to the co-ordinates was one of those examples. We drove to the town of Voi and turned right (east) to almost backtrack another 80km through a part of the Tsavo West National Park. Up to that point we had driving on a perfectly good, wide and pot hole free tar road which I knew was about to change. This was a transit road heading towards Moshi in Tanzania and although gravel, and in a terrible state, you still did not need to pay park fees to use it. It was just after 16:00 when we reached the place we had been heading for and it was with a little relief after a long day’s drive that I started slowing down for the inevitable upcoming turn. It never came. Our given co-ordinates marked the middle of nowhere where the only sign of civilization, apart from the powdery dusty road we were on, was the famous Tsavo railway where the man eating Lions caused havoc in amongst the labourers about a century before. With some confusion and a lot of disappointment I pulled off the road and consulted all our maps and guidebooks as well as the notes I made when Robert gave me the co-ordinates. None of our other literature even mentioned the Red Elephant Lodge. There was nothing for it, we had to give up on that idea and seek alternative accommodation.

The next closest place was a lodge called Groga Castle Lodge some twenty minutes away. Turning off the main road we saw a big building on a hill, towering about 1 000 meters above the dusty, desert like plains of southern Kenya. We both decided that if we were the ones who had a castle in the area that would be the location of it, so headed that way. The GPs agreed, but our confidence in the device was a little wavering. Kilimanjaro was, predictably, obscured by the clouds that usually surrounded it, but we knew it was close.

As we came to the gate at the bottom of the hill we briefly reminisced about something that happened on our very first over land trip in Namibia six years earlier: We had driven for a long time to reach a place called “The Rock Finger” and timed it so that we would be there in the late afternoon light for some photography. Our maps then indicated a community camp site by the base of it. When we arrived we discovered that it had closed down a few years before and the only place to stay in the area was a lodge with the predictable name of “Rock Finger Lodge”. I felt horribly under dressed when I walked into reception and after trying not to laugh at their $400 a night a person rate our only option was to drive back to the town of Khorixas. The last hour was in the dark.

I apprehensively asked the Masai at the gate if they knew if the place offered camping. It was instantly clear that my Swahili was inadequate for the request and their English was non existent. They did smile and open the gate though, so we followed the winding path to the top of the hill where the castle was bound to be. I expected a car park filled with expensive 4X4’s and the sound of laughter from affluent guests enjoying their sundowners on some form of lookout deck. What I did not expect at all was to drive up to an incomplete building and to be greeted by a man called Davies, who was obviously there to look after the place with his two mangy Alsatian dogs and rusted Range Rover.

Davies told us that the manager had left for Nairobi that morning and that we had to phone the owner to get permission to stay there as the lodge was not operational yet. I felt a little more positive. Vicky, the owner was in Mombasa at the time and she had absolutely no problem with us staying at the lodge. In fact, she almost insisted that we use one of the finished rooms instead of our tent and even offered the services of… what’s his name… (Davies) to cook for us. She even told me how to turn the generator on for electricity and said that she would arrange everything with Davies as soon as she reached home. The drive would take her no longer than 10 minutes she said. When I put the phone down I couldn’t believe our luck! I told Catt that I thought that I had scored us a room and already indicated that we should offer enough food for Davies to cook so that he could eat with us.

While we were waiting for the call back Davies took us on the grand tour. It was a bizarre building with huge court yard in the centre. The second floor hosted some unfinished rooms (Read building site) and a finished lounge and bar with panoramic windows overlooking the planes far below and the big mountain on the other side. We were proudly shown the “traditional” beds that were planned which really reminded of a larder with mesh walls to keep the mosquitoes off your body while sleeping. On opening a window or two I also realized the necessity for the country yard. There was nothing to block the wind from hitting the castle for as far as the eye could see and I was pretty sure that Kilimanjaro would accelerate the winds from that direction rather than blocking them. I asked Davies to see one of the rooms we may stay in and with a little confusion we went to his house to get the keys.

While he was away, the return call came from Vicky, the owner. She asked if we wanted a room and when I politely answered “That would be great if you don’t mind” the kicker came: “Well, as we are not fully open yet, we will only charge you $70 a night for the room… if you don’t mind”. What I wanted to say was: “So let me get this straight…. Your place looks and smells like an absolute building site with only a lounge, one bedroom with shared bathroom and dining room completed. Your kitchen is barely functional and you have no staff at all. The view is pretty nice, but that’s about it… and you want to charge me how much?” What came out was: “Well, honestly, that is just way more than what we can afford. If we promise not to use any of your facilities, could we perhaps camp in your car park for less?” The agreed fee was an astronomical (For Kenya) $25 for the two of us, but it a damn side better than driving back down the hill and finding another place to stay in the dark.

So, not breaking rule no One again, we set up camp, facing the clouds where Kilimanjaro was while being ogled by no less than three Masai warrior Askaris, because we were perfectly safe, you understand.

The very first time we had encountered the Masai night watchman was at Zion Camp, outside Tanzania’s Tarangire national Park. I remembered thinking that he must have believed that he was invisible, as he would stand meters away from us, not doing anything, not saying anything, just looking at us and what we were doing. I also remembered wondering what exactly he thought he would achieve with his bow and arrow when the proverbial shit hit the fan. Since that first encounter we had come across similar people from time to time and somehow, strangely got used to the idea that the person responsible for our safety had no modern weapons and thought it his duty to be inside our personal space to protect us. This however was the first time we had three of them and to be honest, I felt a little uncomfortable. Adding to the mood was the fact that we could not communicate past greeting and welcoming each other, which seemed to happen every ten minutes without reason. I felt very welcome! I had also learnt that the novelty of new things wore off fairly quickly and within an hour they retreated to the steps of the building behind our chosen parking spot. They were then at least five meters away.

Not enlisting Davies’s help, we managed to prepare our own food and while the pot was stewing, we played a game of dice. This was too much for our guardians and within an instant they were surrounding our table to see what was happening. There was no way to explain the rules, so I resolved to be more emotionally happy when scoring well and less happy but as emotional when I did not. At least they knew who won and who lost as they definitely shared in the outbursts of emotion.

After dinner they were missing. Well, perhaps they were just invisible, but I couldn’t see them anywhere. This was just as well as my favourite askari, the skinny Alsatian on the tether, received the 250ml of UHT whole milk that could not fit into our 750ml milk container. He seemed pleased, and he was the only one who didn’t insist on being in our personal space the whole time! Once the washing up was done, the dice were tired and the wine glasses empty we decided to retire to our own castle on the roof. As my foot touched the bottom run of the ladder I spotted one of the Masai, hooded and standing in the shadows two meters away. I was convinced that he thought he fooled us, so I smiled and bade him a good night. He did not smile, but gave a little wave in acknowledgement.

Day 196:
It had been a windy night and the tent was flapping rather violently at times. We had also acquired a mosquito or two inside our safe haven, which helped explain the need for sleeping in a larder rather than under a normal mosquito net inside the lodge. I did manage to hunt them down and kill them one by one, so at least the latter part of the night was really peaceful! We woke up to a cloudy and humid morning, not being able to see the massive mountain we knew existed and wasted no time packing up and heading off. We did however use the shower to rinse of the worst of the red powdery dust we had managed to get ourselves get caked in the previous day.

Heading down the hill I felt slightly cheated by the money we had paid for the little we had received for it, but was still conflictingly pleased about finding a place to stay before dark. This day the road seemed easier to drive and especially as we were not in a hurry, almost pleasant to meander through the villages and wave at the Masai dressed in traditional clothes, going about their days in what I could only assume was the traditional way. I was tempted to get the cameras out, but the idea that we were allowed to drive and look without being harassed and without money being solicited from us was such a pleasant and unexpected experience, but I let be.

It was strange though, the pre conceived ideas that we had, formed after hearing stories of other travellers before us, about how aggressively the people marketed themselves and their heritage. The stories were so vivid and similar to one another that we both felt very apprehensive about the area long before entering it. Our experience was very different! Not only of the Masai in Masai land, but also Kenya and the Kenyans. The reportedly corrupt and aggressive police at road blocks seemed to ignore us. The Masai herders were more interested in their cattle than in us. The children smiled and waved at us without sticking their arms out begging and the woman tended to their homesteads seemingly thankful that we slowed down to minimise the dust as we passed them. We had not paid skin tax in the markets, the National Parks were almost affordable and apart from a warning about a dangerous road a week before; we had only experience positive things about the country and its people. Our only conclusion was that people travelling to Kenya straight after Tanzania would be hyper sensitive to all those negative things as they are thrusted in your face at every opportunity in Kenya’s southern neighbour. Shame really, as it too could have been a fantastic country to visit.

Just before the town of Voi we got pulled over by the police. This was the first time this had happened to us in Kenya, so I was a little apprehensive. The man wanted to see the driver’s licence and on presenting my South African licence he shook his head. He wanted to see my “international driving permit”, which I had, so I presented that. He checked our insurance and the licence disk on the car, wished us a safe journey and sent us on our way. Unfairly I was convinced that he would try and extort money from us right up to the point of him waving us good bye. Terrible what pre conceived ideas would do to you, I thought.

In Voi we turned towards Tsavo East National Park’s gate and voila! We found the sign to the Red Elephant Safari Lodge. It was only 97km from where we had thought it was and we only drove 112km in the wrong direction and back again to find it!

The brochure that was pinned up at Jungle Junction, which I never consulted for location, spoke of a water hole in front of the lodge, a swimming pool and affordable camping. When we arrived around 11:00 it felt like mid day in Namibia in the middle of summer, so a swimming pool alone would have sealed the deal. There was no real camp site to speak of, as with so many of the lodges we had found, but there was indeed a water hole in front of the lodge. The swimming pool was sparklingly clean and inviting and instead of a run down ablution block we received a room key which bathroom we could use. There was another water hole inside the park with only a fence separating the lodge from it and this place had some Elephants and other plains game around it. It was exactly what the brochure had said it to be, so despite the fact that could have made the beaches of Mombasa well before sunset, we decided to saddle off, enjoy the pool and stay the night. It did not take long to confirm that that was a good decision!

If I had to it over again:
When entering Kenya I should have known that 30 days would never be enough time in the country and I should have opted for the 90 day visa for $25 from the start. Now I know that we will spend much longer in Kenya, so now I have to find a place to renew my VISA. I’m pretty sure it would be easy.

Jungle Junction is a magical place and should not be missed! We spent a week there and it was time to go, but we are under no illusions. We’ll probably spend another week there when we pass though Nairobi again. So fair warning to those who travel through Nairobi: A two day stop over there is not possible!

Getting lost and getting the co-ordinates wrong: well, that’s part of the adventure. Sure, it cost us a day and a couple of hundred kilometres in fuel, but in the bigger scheme of things, we managed to see a part of the country we otherwise would not have visited. We do seem to have a habit of not planning ahead when we either enter a new country, or stay stationary for a while. As our next border crossing will pose a whole heap of logistical issues and new problems, this is something we should probably work on a little.